Domaine de Montille, Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru, Aux Thorey

(100% vendange entier; 50% new oak; from vines planted on hard limestone): Healthy dark red. Pungent minerality lifts the aromas of black cherry, licorice and spices. Very dense, tactile and rich, conveying an impression of chocolatey ripeness that I did not find in the Côte de Beaune wines at this address. A bit rustic in a Nuits-Saint-Georges way but boasts excellent energy and freshness. Noticeably tannic after the Côte de Beaune examples and not quite as long as the best wines from Pommard and Volnay.