Ponsot, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cuvee Vieilles Vignes

(14% alcohol, vs. 14.5% for the 2015 bottling; the estate owns 3.35 hectares in this grand cru, mostly in the climat Clos de la Roche): Dark red with ruby tones. Fully ripe but reticent nose combines cherry and musky soil tones, lifted by a floral topnote. Compellingly sappy, thick and deep; an utterly seamless grand cru with outstanding depth of texture and an impression of energy and power to its red and black fruit and earth flavors. Boasts uncommon thickness of fruit and purity. The wonderfully long, slowly rising, edge-free finish shows terrific energy. (The estate's Chapelle-Chambertin still had some unconverted malic acidity--indeed, winemaker Alexandre Abel may need to rack the wine and warm the tank to get it to finish--and was very difficult to assess with confidence. But it's savory, rich and deep, with complex soil tones and considerable sweetness.)